TRAVEL - Bangkok ABC's

Several people have asked for my notes on Bangkok and it proved useful to them. Perhaps one or two facts will steer you in the right direction as you explore the city . . .

Three Days in Bangkok

Bangkok is the “Chicago O’Hare” of Southeast Asia. You will likely stop in Bangkok if traveling to another SE Asia destination. It is a modern city that is an “oasis” after third world travel. It has some of the finest hotels in the world and is a shopper’s paradise. Bangkok is a remarkably affordable city by Western standards. Bangkok runs at a fast pace to be sure, but is not as gruff and course as other cities of its size.

1. Money. The Bangkok airport is a good place to exchange currency. This may be the only airport in the world where this is the case. Go ahead and exchange some money here. You can always use ATM, but you should check ahead of time to see what kind of fee(s) your bank will charge. It may be prudent to call your credit card company and tell them you will be traveling abroad. Some credit card companies will deny charges if they are suspicious (and a couple of thousand dollars charged in Bangkok may look odd). Visa is more widely accepted than Master Card abroad (in the U.S. they are interchangeable, but not abroad). When calling your credit card company to alert them of your travels abroad, ask them about any fees for using the card abroad. Avoid cash advances on credit cards. The interest is outrageous. American Express offers “counter checks” at their worldwide offices. This allows you to write a personal check (in U.S. dollars) and receive local currency. This is a very convenient service. Travels checks are also a safe way to go.
2. Etiquette. Thailand is a very devout country. You will see monks everywhere. There is special seating for monks in public places. Do not sit there. Women should never touch monks. When visiting Wats (temples) everyone should wear long pants and shoes. Thailand loves their king. The Thai people are very tolerant people except when you disrespect the king. When making purchases, bargaining is done very gently. This differs greatly from other parts of Asia, esp. China and Vietnam. Learn how to say a few basic words and phrases. “Hello, thank you, and please” will buy you lots of good will. Check Lonely Planet index for key phrases.
3. Hassles and Headaches. The least enjoyable part about Bangkok is the taxi drivers. You must insist on using the meter or you may be in for a bill that is double or more than what it should be. If you can, take the sky train and the water taxi. But even in the event that you are “ripped off” by a taxi driver, it is usually a case of paying $8 US rather than $4 US. It is annoying, not devastating. Bangkok may be the easiest place to get ripped off in SE Asia. Check Lonely Planet of various scams. Bangkok will be hot. If it is not hot, then it will be rainy. Check Lonely Planet for seasonal weather for the dates you will be there. Pack accordingly, but don’t worry if you forget something. You can buy an umbrella, camera, shoes, etc. anywhere and for a price similar to or less than home.
4. Transportation. In Bangkok you have many options. Taxis, tuk-tuks, skytrain and water taxi just to name the obvious. Traffic in Bangkok is very, very congested and it is usually best (fastest) to take a combo of skytrain, water taxi, tuk-tuk and walking (even if it is not a direct route) to get to your destination.
5. Food. Thai food is world-renowned and easy to recognize. Lonely Planet has a decent section on the food. If food is important to you, you may want to take a half-day Thai cooking class. Thailand offers tropical fruits unavailable in the contiguous U.S. Keep and eye out for mangosteens, guanavana and wax apples, three of my favorites that are unavailable in the U.S. Bangkok is as fine an eating city as there is in the world. And not just Thai food. There is a sizable Chinatown and any sort of Western fare you can imagine. Restaurant. Of particular interest is Bussaracum, which serves “royal Thai” cuisine. It is located at 139 Sethiwan Tower., Pan Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500. Tele. 02266-6312-8. Rut & Lek Seafood is the favorite Asian restaurant of Stan Sesser (who with John Krich, wrote the WSJ’s “Eat” series). It is located at the intersection of Yaowarat and Soi Texas. Tele: 1-632-2634. Open 18:30-2:45. No credit cards.
6. Sites. Wat Phra Kaew: Grand Palace; Wat Pho; Jiim Thompson’s House; Chatuchak Weekend market are just a few of the “usual suspects” that a first time tourist would/should visit. Kukrit Pramoj’s House (house of the late PM of Thailand). It looks even better than Jim Thompson’s house. Address: 19 Soi Prapinit, South Sathorn Rd. Open 10.00-17.00. Admission: 50 Baht.
7. Hotels. We have stayed in three neighborhoods. The first is Siam Square where the old Siam Intercontinental used to be before it was torn down last year. This is a very central location and always busy with students and locals. There is a Siam Square Skytrain stop. We last stayed on Silom Road at the new Sofitel (formerly the Monarch-Lee Gardens . . . and that’s how it’s listed in the Lonely Planet). This area is more upscale, with tourists/expats. Also a very convenient location due to the Skytrain stations at Sala Baeng and Chong Nonsi. Finally, we stayed at the J.W. Marriott in the Sukhumvit neighborhood. The Grand Dame of Hotels in Bangkok is the Oriental, but there are other hotels that offer similar luxury without the storied history of the Oriental. Check out this website for bookings: www.directrooms.com
8. Resources. Lonely Planet Bangkok 6/e © 2004. Lonely Planet Thailand 11/e © 2005 Worldmate program for Palm Pilot. www.directrooms.com